S/V Blue Chip

S/V Ravens' Dream

Ravens' Dream is a 1976 - 30' Grampian sailing sloop. She is our
second sailboat since moving to British Columbia in 1988. We came
across her one evening in Nanaimo. We were out for a walk along
Stewart Avenue, on our way back to Port Hardy, when we both noticed a
mast with a great "rake" to it. It was love at first sight! We
decided to stay over night, and go back for a better look in the
morning. After a short sail around Newcastle Island, we negotiated a
deal, and now where the owners of two sailboats!

Our sailing lives have varied greatly. Mine had consisted of going
out occasionally as a guest on friends boats on Lake Ontario once in
awhile before moving to B.C., so with that and my mere 18 years of
sailing here, pails in comparison to Jim, who on the other hand has
been sailing since he was 6 years old. He was raised in Foster Care
and ended up with a family who had a son of their own who was
10 years older then Jim. Burt had taught himself how to sail by
rigging canoes with sails in the beginning, then he started building small sailboats himself.

By the time Jim was 6, Burt would take Jim with him and they
would sail around the Islands in Toronto harbour, Then by the time
Jim was 10 to 12 they began sailing across Lake Ontario usually at
night on Fridays. Burt taught Jim how to steer a compass course, and
he would go below and cook supper while Jim sailed the boat. Burt was
working by this time, so they would leave Friday evenings, over to
Niagara-on-the-Lake, and come back on Sunday afternoons. Even years
later when Jim had joined the Navy, and would come home to Toronto on
leave in the summer, they would still sail together.

We lived and worked in Port Hardy at the time we purchased Raven'
Dream (this is the name we gave her when we re-registered her) so we
sailed Queen Charlotte Strait, and then we moved to Comox in 1992 and
to Qualicum Bay in 2002 so we have enjoyed the Georgia Strait area,
Desolation Sound and the Sunshine Coast since. We where so pleased to
get moorage at the Deep Bay Marina, a secure snug harbour, with a
wonderful group of "sailors" for neighbours.

Both Jim and I are looking forward to favourable weather, and a great
sail on our "Around Together" adventure!

Skipper: Linda Thompson

First Mate: Jim Roberts

Barkley Sound - Chart 3671

Submitted by Niels W. Bang

As I have not sailed here, all my knowledge stems from the book “Exploring Vancouver Island’s West Coast”.

As you enter Barkley Sound, Ucluelet is known as a “safe landing place”.

Getting in to Ucluelet use caution, and if the weather is rough it is recommended to avoid Caroline Channel and use Feline Channel.

Anchorage is possible in Ucluelet Inlet, see page 226 (Spring Cove and Stuart Bay).

In Ucluelet there are generally 3 choices: Two public docks, or pick up a buoy on either side of Lynske Island or stay inside the small boat harbour. D, E and F are for pleasure and commercial crafts.

Ucluelet is a full service town. Petro Canada, Esso and Chevron all have fuel docks.

If you decide to stay a couple of days there is a great “Wild Pacific Trail”, starting at the lighthouse at Amphitrite Pt. (Brochure will go on the blog).

To explore Barkley Sound I would strongly recommend to follow the book as it seems to give an incredibly accurate description of anchor places and what to see.

The Broken Group and Pacific Rim National Park seem to be a Paradise for kayakers to explore – and there seem to be quite a few anchor places for bigger boats, too. But, as I said before use the book as I have not been there before.

The only waterway we have been on is the Alberni Inlet up to Bamfield – we took a day trip on “Lady Rose” from Port Alberni to Bamfield and back. It was a very scenic trip.

In Robbers Passage between Tzartus and Flemming Island, Port Alberni Yacht Club has an outstation, and guests are welcome. Bigger boats have to enter from Imperial Eagle Channel side, as Robbers Pass is only 2 m. deep.

Bamfield has all services available. The dock is for store use only - not for overnighters. There are mooring buoys north of Burlo, but they are busy in the summer months. Anchoring between the buoys can be done.

Grappler inlet 0.25 miles east of Bamfield has a lot slower pace than the Bamfield Inlet. There are numerous small bays in Trevor Channel to be explored.

Dodger Channel is one of the best sites for anchoring, viewing, and experiencing the exposed coast of Barkley Sound before heading towards Victoria.

The channel is well sheltered in fair summer weather, but not a place to be caught in in foul weather.

Captain Jim's Radio Telephone Tips

RANDOM NOTES ON RADIOTELEPHONE TIPS

By Captain James F. Barn CD

VTS (Vessel Traffic Services) is the arm of the CCG which aids the safety of shipping throughout Canada. It is, of course, designed for the professional mariner operating commercial and larger (other use) vessels. These promulgated VHF channels offer a wealth of navigational information to those who are by law compelled to comply... .and those of us who wish to eavesdrop and make good use of the service.

Let me assure you that it is not necessary to participate in the Service, we can listen but we may also utilize the channel for navigational/identification and other uses simply by keying the mike and using the proper procedure.

For instance if you observe a larger or commercial vessel with which you wish to exchange information this can be done simply and effectively.

Having been listening on the circuit, you may be aware (by previous VTS conversations) the vessel's callsign... .call the vessel .. .inform her who and where you are in relation to that vessel and .. .ask or exchange your information. OR

If you do not know who the vessel is... .call the VTS and inform of your position (geographical) and where the mystery vessel is situated in relation to your position.. ..VTS will identify that target for you and you may then communicate directly.

COMOX TRAFFIC CH#71 will assist you all the way to Cape Scott

TOFINO TRAFFIC CH#74 will assist you all the way to Juan de Fuca

VICTORIA TRAFFIC CH#l In Juan de Fuca and up toward Winchelsea Is

SEATTLE TRAFFIC CH#05A Also in Juan de Fuca Strait

Please leam how to use Distress, Urgency and Safety Signals and do not be timid on the use of your VHF Radio.

Consider buying a copy of Radio Aids to Marine Navigation plus a copy of List of Lights Buoys and Fog Signals (Pacific Coast) keeping this one corrected is simple and will let you get much longer use from those dog-eared charts we all keep under the for'd berth.

Channel 16 is, as we all know, a distress/calling frequency, commercial vessels for the large part only listen to this frequency but guard the Traffic frequency, I firmly believe if you start making it a habit of utilizing Traffic Services it will make all your outings more pleasant, professional and safe.

Hope these small tips help.

Jim

S/V WHIMSY II

Captain JFBnin CD

DEEP BAY MARINA

Captain Jim's Weather Tips

RANDOM NOTES ON WEATHER

By Captain James F. Barn CD

The old saying, stand with your back to the wind and the high pressure will be on your right side and the low pressure on the left, this and many other old mariners ditties are as true today as they were when there were iron crew and wooden ships. Might do us all good to review some of the old sayings regarding weather.

Vancouver Island..Generally speaking a summer storm in our neck of the woods are fore-run by a front from the south or southwest. These winds will back into the southeast and can usually be identified by an accompanying narrow band of cloud and light rain showers. As this front moves SE the sky will often clear and the rain will stop. However, now keep an eye on your barometer where the pressure will rise and can be as much as 1mb each hour which then produces very strong NW winds which are particularly felt in our area where they are funneled through Barkley Sound. Sometimes we can be caught flat-footed as this front may have little, or no cloud whatsoever. Winds may even drop and the glass steady..... .but, the glass will then jump and the wind will quickly freshen sometimes to gale force.

Watch your barometer, (or communicate with a cruising buddy who has one aboard) and as Ken showed you how.. ..do your own weather after listening to the b'casts. Be more than vigilant when nearing Brooks Peninsula where a phenomena termed 'Status Surge' can cause gale force winds suddenly and will come from the south, the fishermen call it 'fog wind' Forerunners are a rapid air temp drop accompanied by a drifting fog bank from the south. So.. ...since there is little radio warning on this nasty piece of work ..don't let your guard down, snug down and get out the cards.

Hope this helps

Jim

Suggested reading

Environment Canada

Marine Weather Hazards Manual

Brooks Peninsula

Schedules

It eas decided at the meeting (20th) that most of us would depart as a group from the bay on Thursday 7th June @ noon, and overnight in Henry Bay.

We failed to set a date for the next meeting. Most of us will be attending the Opening Day next Saturday at 5:00 pm. so how about scheduling our next meeting for the Sunday before we depart, June 3rd, - same time same place.

Communications - Call on 16 - Use 9 as the chat channel.

Would everyone who has an MMSI# for their radio please forward to me so that I can post the list here.

Anyone planning to dress their boat for opening day?

Over The Top

Picture from Google Earth looking over the Nawitti Bar towards Cape Scott in the background.

If you have Google Earth on your computer it is an excellent way to get a preview of your voyage by scrolling around on the different legs. You can even get a profile view like the one above by changing the perspective - the top bar on the on the Google Earth control panel on the top right of the screen. You can save the image from the "File" menu. Let's see who will be the first to send me an image of the view going into Winter Harbour.

Google Earth can be obtained as a FREE download from:

http://earth.google.com/

Barkley Sound to Victoria - Chart 3606

Olga McClean thoroughly researched the area and present the following information:-

Once called the “Graveyard of the Pacific” and now a “downhill run” the stretch of coast between Barkley Sound through the Juan de Fuca Straits has been the scene of numerous shipwrecks. At the turn of the century there were no lights on this lonely stretch of coast to aid navigation and many ships foundered on the rocky, windblown shore. An adventure to read is “The Valencia Story “by Michael C. Nitzel which chronicles the tragic demise of this passenger ship which sailed between San Francisco and Seattle in 1906. A series of errors, lack of communication and assistance led to the loss of many helpless people as the ship was pounded into the rocks only 30 yards from shore. This incident led to the building of the Pachena Lighthouse and the construction of the West Coast Trail and the opening up of the area to greater access for rescuing vessels in distress and to the glories of that particular stretch of coastline. Now with modern technology the Straits of Juan de Fuca can be approached with confidence mixed with a great deal of respect for this sometimes daunting piece of water.

The Strait of Juan de Fuca was named in 1788 by the English Captain John Mears of the ship Felice for Juan de Fuca, who was the Greek sailor who claimed to have gone on a voyage with Spanish sailors in 1592 to find the fabled Straits of Anian.

From Barkley Sound in the north it is 92 nautical miles to Victoria. Many people do this in one run which necessitates an overnight sail. Those contemplating this should leave from Barkley Sound pre dawn before the prevailing winds start and after first checking the 4:00am weather forecast. This stretch of water can change quickly so be prepared. Boaters should be aware that this is a popular fishing area and care should be taken to avoid small craft, many of which may not have running lights. For those who decide to go at a slower pace there are some anchorages along the way , notably Port St Juan and Sooke Harbour, both of which will be looked at in more detail later.

Attention should be paid to the currents through Juan de Fuca

Refer to the Current Tables #5 Page 61 /62 as the current can vary from 2 .4 knots ebb to 1.5 flood

.

Fuel is available at the following places:

-Bamfield

-Port Renfrew

-Sooke Harbour

-Neah Bay

-Sehiu

-Port Angeles

1. On leaving Barkley Sound the first point reached is Cape Beal where the island takes a more easterly direction. From there it is 20 nautical miles to Carmanagh Point.

The Swiftsure Shoal looms next and after this is negotiated the swells gradually decrease

2. The Juan de Fuca Strait is entered by crossing a line drawn between Carmanagh Point and Cape Flannery on the Olympic Peninsula and is 53 nautical miles long and 12 miles wide. The weather can differ from one end to the other and this is a channel busy with commercial vessels and pleasure craft. If the weather indicates a southwesterly storm, then shelter can be found in Neah Bay on the Olympic Peninsula.

3. Pachena Point has a lighthouse and is the resting place of the ill fated ship Valencia and some of the wreckage can still be seen a low tide

4. Tsusiat Falls. This is a spectacular waterfall which can be clearly seen from offshore. It is useful as a navigation aid for fixing position.

5. Nitinat Narrows and Nitinat Llake. This bay, which is exposed to ocean swells, is protected by a bar and should not be attempted without local knowledge. The lake itself is freshwater and spills directly into the ocean and the surging waters can be dangerous.

6. Carmanagh Point starts the Strait of Juan de Fuca and from here it is 50 miles to Race Rocks. The strait is approx 12 miles across.

7. Bonilla Point is a kayakers’ paradise and it has a light which is privately operated for the fishing fleet

8. Port St Juan which is the first anchorage available since leaving Barkley Sound is easily identified as it sits in a gap between two mountains. It is exposed to SW winds and heavy seas can cause rolls when the wind blows. If there is any chance of bad weather it is advisable to head to Neah Bay across the Strait in Washington State

In summer the bays in Port San Juan can provide shelter from the summer winds.

Various bays within Port San Juan can be accessed for anchorage

a) - Thrasher Cove has moderate shelter in prevailing northwest conditions

b) - Gordon River has a bar across the entrance and a drying spit

c) - Snuggery Cove and Port Renfrew in stable weather - room for unlimited boats. There are also limited supplies available and fuel can be carried by jerry can from the local garage

d) Woods Nose and Mill Cove .Each have room for one or 2 boats and offers protection from southeasterlies.

There is now no shelter until Sooke Harbour -32 miles away

NB. If landing in Neah Bay the following documents are needed for entry to the United States:

a) a valid passport

OR

b) birth certificate AND photo identification

9. Neah Bay . - has several resorts e.g. Makah Marina for transient boats Phone #360 645 3015

Anchorage is good sand bottom throughout bay

This is not a customs port of entry. General store is well stocked

Neah Bay is DRY

Makah Cutlural Centre is well worth a visit. It is a time capsule of coastal Indian life.

10. Jordon River has great windsurfing but no access for boats

11. Sooke Inlet. For most people this is the stopping point before the final stretch into Victoria. Sooke Harbour is protected by Whiffin Spit which makes entrance to the harbour and basin difficult. It is advised to have adequate charts and extensive prior knowledge and preparation. Once entry is gained this is an intriguing place to explore .A walk along the spit is suggested as is a stop at the world renowned Sooke Harbour Restaurant which is located at the head of the spit

Crabbing is excellent around the spit. There are many sheltered anchorages within the basin. However, there can be lots of traffic as this harbour is used extensively by both commercial and pleasure craft.

- Sooke Harbour Public Wharf and Marina offers space and an opportunity to provision.

- In Sooke Basin there is Anderson Cove which is sheltered and the Sunny Shores resort. Sunny Shores is the only marina within the harbour and basin to provide fuel facilities. Nearby Cooper Cove offers protected anchorage, as does Hutchinson Cove.

12. Becher Bay can be full of sports fishing boats. Some shelter can be found in Campbell Cove which has easy access.

13. Make your way around Race Rocks and it is advisable to favour the Betinct Island side just keeping outside the kelp line while negotiating Race Passage… and thence into Victoria.

14. Victoria Harbour.

Located east of a line joining Colville Island and Shoal Point up to the Johnson Street Bridge is known as the Inner Harbour. The harbour is also an aerodrome and float planes arrive and take off on a regular basis. Check taxiing area before navigating harbour. This is a busy area with ferries, cruise ships, tugs with log booms and all manner of small craft.

Anchorage within harbour

a) Fisherman’s Wharf- usually busy but rafting a possibility

b) James Bay right below Empress Hotel is impressive! Good facilities and easy access to supplies and all the wonderful things offered in Victoria. I liked the free delivery from Thrifties!!

c) Wharf Street has good facilities

d) Located in Cadboro Bay one facility we used a few years ago was the Royal Victoria Yacht Club. Easy access and great showers and we have a reciprocal agreement.

Book which I found very useful:

1. Docks and Destinations

Peter Vassilopoulos

2. Waggoner Cruising Guide 2007

Wetherley Press

3. Gulf Islands & Vancouver Island -- Victoria & Sooke to Nanaimo

A Dreamspeaker Cruising Guide Volume 1

Anne& Laurence Yeadon- Jones

4. Exploring Vancouver Island’s West Coast

Doug Douglass & Reanne Hemingway-Douglass

………..and of course the bottomless pit of information on the internet

Nils Fuel Chart

Nils has done some research on fuelling opportunities for the circumnavigation.

M/V Shagpoke - 40' Nordhaven

Three years of development by Pacific Asian Enterprise (P.A.E.) produced the smallest of the Nordhaven fleet of ocean-crossing motor vessels. Her size does not limit her non-stop cruising range thanks to her fuel capacity and full displacement hull design. She is designed to punch through heavy head seas, her high bow provides buoyancy and contributes to her dry ride while her long keel with a large protected rudder keeps her going where she is pointed and her passive stabilizers minimize the side rolls caused by beam seas. As a result of this technology, this type of vessel was the smallest production trawler to circumnavigate the world in 2000 in 26 weeks. Then in 2004 this vessel type joined the Nordhaven fleet again in crossing the Atlantic.

In September of 2004 I became the proud owner of Shagpoke. My partner, Bob Norman, brought the vessel from its home in Dana Point, CA to its new home in Deep Bay. In Bob's memory - I am carrying on with our plans of circumnavigating Vancouver Island. Captain James Bain (accompanied by his wife Toni) has graciously agreed to be my skipper for the journey. The journey will be a major accomplishment in many ways. I will be able to continue to learn the operation of the vessel and it will bring a community of people together to enjoy the many of the sites in our beautiful coastal waters of British Columbia. Bob's memory will also be honored as he was part of the initial idea to make this journey as a group.

It is my hope that we will all carry his memory in our hearts as we travel.

Staffed Lighthouses

All these lighthouses monitor channel 82a and 16. They indicate that they would be very happy to answer any inquiries you may have regarding weather, sea conditions etc. E.g. on the morning before rounding Cape Scott. The Coast Guard were contacted and indicate that if we have problem contacting the lighthouse they, the Coast Guard, can be contacted on 83a ( The new Coast Guard working channel) and that they would relay a message by land line.

Kyuquot Sound

Tara & Tim Coulter have thoroughly researched the area and present the following information:-

Kyuquot Sound

From Checleset Bay to Walter’s Cove we are usually traveling in either ecological reserves, Provincial Parks or First Nation lands. Parks restrict where people can camp and visitors are not allowed to remove anything from the park whether it be rock or stone. First Nations territories require permission and sometimes a fee to go ashore.

Kyuquot Sound is one of the five main sounds on the western coast of Vancouver Island. The many reefs and underlying rocks deterred early explorers and the Sound was one of the last areas to be charted in the province. The area is now a mecca for kayakers and wilderness travelers.

Solander Island Ecological Reserve at the northern tip of Brooks Peninsula cannot be visited except with a permit. It provides refuge for many different species of birds including the Tufted puffin and of course, sea lions. Ecological reserves in BC were created to protect unique ecosystems with rare and endangered plant and animal species. In storm conditions, “winds off Solander Island can be 15 knots higher than further offshore or away from the point.” (Marine Weather Hazards Manual, p. 97)

Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park offers a wilderness experience for hardy adventurers who want to go ashore. Brooks Peninsula and Rugged Point are the only parts of Vancouver Island that escaped glaciation during the last ice age. Therefore, Brooks Peninsula is home to some unique plant species. The park is also home to the Marbled Murrelet which nests in the thick moss of old-growth trees. Although, we are unlikely to explore the park, some may choose to return in the future.

Boaters and kayakers are more familiar with Brooks Peninsula’s notorious intense weather. “The passage around Brooks Peninsula under storm conditions is one of the most hazardous on the West coast” (Marine Weather Hazards Manual, p. 97). However, calm waters do prevail; it’s just a matter of listening to the weather reports and choosing your day.

Columbia Cove at the entrance to Nasparti Inlet offers protected anchorage. There is a park trail that crosses the peninsula that gives you access to an exposed beach, perfect for beachcombing.

The Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve is home to sea otters. The indigenous sea otter population was hunted for pelts and was nearly wiped out in the early 1900s. In an effort to save the population from extinction, sea otters from Alaska were introduced between 1969-1972. The efforts were successful and it is estimated that there are now 2000 otters in the area. However, not everyone is happy with the return of the sea otter.

When the otters were in decline, crabs, sea urchins and abalone were plentiful as the main predator was missing from the food chain. The increase in the otter population has put pressure on shellfish in the area and some experts fear that some illegal culling is happening in the area in order to increase shellfish returns.

The Bunsby Islands are most commonly accessed from Brooks Peninsula enroute to Kyuquot by rock-strewn, Gay Passage. Don Watmough indicates that this is a safer route to follow than attempting the even more, rock-strewn outer passage.

The Bunsbys were named by Captain Richards in 1863 after a Charles Dickens novel, “Dombey & Son”. Watmough says that “inside Gay Passage are some of the area’s best all-weather anchorages.” (Cruising Guide to the West Coast of Vancouver Island, p.63)

1. Eastern side of Bunsby Island tucked inside a cove is the best and most popular even though you can feel some ocean swells here. Anchor in mud, 36’ deep.
2. West side of Gay Passage is secure but more open to SE winds.
3. Between the southern most Bunsby Island and reef-ridden, Checkaklis Island.

Big Bunsby Provincial Marine Park encompasses the easternmost island in the group between Quoukinish Inlet and Malksope Inlet. This park was created to take pressure off Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve, a popular destination for ocean kayakers and other wilderness travelers hoping to catch a glimpse of a sea otter.

Elder, Lucy Paivio lives on Checkaklis Island and is the sister of the chief of the Checleset Kyuquot Territory. She welcomes visitors and should be asked permission to go ashore at Acous, the historical winter village of the Checleset people on Battle Bay where remnants of two old totem poles lay buried in the salal. An offering of fresh food is often appreciated in return for her hospitality (Sea Kayak Nootka & Kyuquot Sounds, p. 151).

Elsie Hulsizer’s beautiful book, “Voyages to Windward – Sailing Adventures on Vancouver Island’s West Coast” provides directions to help you locate the totems, now covered in moss and salal.

Names such as, Battle Bay, Skirmish Islets and Burial Island all point o the violent history of this area.

Carrying on from the Bunsbys to Walter’s Cove (and the First Nations community of Houpsitas) you will pass the now notorious poster child of clearcut logging, Mount Paxton which was featured on the 1992 cover of National Geographic. The devastating erosion of the steep slope was caused by a combination of poor logging practices and a fire that cleared what the loggers left behind.

Kayakers are warned of strong winds which can develop quickly during the passage from the Bunsbys to Walter’s Cove. Morning inflow winds and afternoon outflow winds are common in all the major inlets along the coast and should be taken into consideration especially if they are flowing in opposition to ingoing or outgoing tide.

Sea otters raft together in social displays of grooming their dense fur and can often be found near Chief Rock, just north of Walter’s Cove.

Both the Douglass and Don Watmough cruising guides highly recommend using large scale Chart #3651 to navigate the challenging entrance to Walter’s Cove (note this chart was missed on the initial chart recommendations).

Walter’s Cove is home to approximately 300 residents plus a resident seal, name ‘Miss Charlie”. Miss Charlie was rescued from her dying mother by c-section and raised in a bathtub by the Kayra family of Walter’s Cove. “…She celebrated her 34^th birthday in 1998” (Douglass, p.108).

Half of the residents live in the First Nations community of Houpsitas while the remaining residents live across the bay in Walter’s Cove. Although there are two docks at Houpsitas, they are reserved for the First Nations community.

Walter’s Cove is the first community where provisioning is possible, but remember that this community is only reached by boat, so supplies may be limited depending on when the supply boat last restocked the general store (Thursdays).

Water is available (by donation) just south of the public wharf (340’) and a barge is also located in the Cove offering accommodations and showers (During a call in May/2007 to the General Store, I was told that no one was currently operating the showers and sometimes they are open and sometimes not.)

There is a garbage dumpster available, but be considerate as the garbage is removed weekly by boat. A small hospital, marine hardware store, pay phone, B & B, 6-unit motel and restaurant are also located in the friendly community of Walter’s Cove. Just remember to respect that this is a dry community – so no alcohol consumption please unless you are discreet and below decks.

Fuel is available a further 12 miles up the Sound at Fair Harbour. For those picking up additional crew or in need of emergency parts, Kyuquot can be accessed from Fair Harbour (by land - an exhilarating drive from Zeballos) and then by either water taxi or float plane to Kyuquot. Some boaters may choose to make the journey themselves to Fair Harbour where there are limited amenities.

Weekly service on the MV Uchuck III, a former World War II minesweeper is also available from Gold River. “Uchuck: means “healing waters” although many of its passengers will have another translation for the 136 foot, determined freighter which departs for Nootka and Kyuquot Sounds all year-long.

Note: No anchoring is allowed in Walter’s Cove due to the presence of marine cable and water lines (Douglass, p. 109).

Rugged Point Provincial Park is a remote park south of Kyuquot offering some challenging hiking and a beautiful beach. In Elsie Hulsizer’s book there is a photo with the following caption, “a hiking trail leads across the peninsula to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the coast.”

Rugged Point is located on the eastern shore of Kyuquot Channel. During a nor’wester one evening the Hulsizers took refuge in a small, nameless cove in nearby Amai Inlet that the Douglass refer to as ‘Petroglyph Cove’. The locals call it ‘Blue Lips Cove’ because it was so cold there, that their lips turned blue!

Dixie Cove Marine Park offers good all weather anchorage in Kyuquot Sound for a limited number of boats.

Cachalot is home to a unique Ferro cement sculpture of a sperm whale in honour of the some 4700 whales that were killed and processed by the Pacific Whaling Company at this location. A trip ashore will reveal a few bits and pieces of rusted machinery, but otherwise there is little trace of this once vibrant whaling station that employed 200 people at its peak of operations.

For those who like to explore, the coast between Kyuquot and Esperanza Inlet is abundant with marine fossils. Hulsizer explains that the fossils of Vancouver Island’s west coast tell a fascinating story of geological forces shaping the location of the earth’s continents. Vancouver Island was once part of a cluster of islands called Wrangellia located near the equator. On a conveyor belt of molten lava and oceanic currents, the islands began moving north at a rate of 7 cm/year. Fossil hounds will discover fossils of tropical and subtropical creatures by cracking open beach rocks.

Contacts:

Kyuquot Band office

(Tel) 250-332-5259

Walter’s Cove General Store/Government Dock

250-332-5211

Voyageur Water Taxi

250-332-5301

www.voyageurtaxi.com

Walter’s Cove Lodge

1-800-810-8933

www.walterscove.com

(fly-in resort; no facilities for non-guests)

Resources:

Environment Canada. Marine Weather Hazards Manual. Frazen Print Communications Ltd.: 1999

Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Sailing Directions Ottawa.: 1999, (with 2001 supplement)

Harbord, Heather. Sea Kayak Nootka & Kyuquot Sounds.Rocky, Mountain Books: Surrey, BC. 2004.

Hulsizer, Elsie. Voyages to Windward – Sailing Adventures on Vancouver Island’s West Coast. Harbour Publishing Co. Ltd.: Madeira Park, 2005.

Watmough, Don. Cruising Guide to the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Evergreen Pacific Publishing Ltd.: Washington, 1998.

Good article on sea otters in Bunsby Islands:

www.canadiangeographic.ca/travel/adventure/guides/summer_2006/feature_otter.asp

Information on BC marine parks and safety tips:

www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks

www.britishcolumbia.com/parks

www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/towns/?townID=3977

www.britishcolumbia.com/parks/?id=331

Weather Stations Chart

This is the chart you can use to record the weather data from the Coast Guard Radio broadcast. Print out a copy for your own use by clicking on the picture, to select it, and then click "Print" from the "File" menu on your browser.

Float Plan

Float Plan

Vessel name:

---

Vessel licence number or registration:

---

Captain's Name:

---

Address:

---

Telephone:

---

Vessel type (sail/power):

---

Model and size:

---

Color Hull: Deck: Cabin: Canvas:

---

Type of Engine(s):

---

Other distinguishing features:

---

Radios, channels monitored (HF/VHF/CB):

---

Life rafts (type, size, color):

---

Dinghy (type, size, color):

---

Other safety equipment:

---

Flares (number):

---

Lifejackets (number):

---

Other:

---

Trip Data

Leaving from:

---

Date: Time:

---

Destination:

---

Estimated Date: Time:

---

Proposed route:

---

Names of people on board:

---

Returning on date:

---

Route, date, time of arrival:

---

Call Search and Rescue at Date/Time:

---

Coast Guard #s - (250) 363-2994 (250) 363-2988 (250) 363-2992 1-800-567-5111

Comox Coast Guard Radio – (250) 339-3613

Sail Plans or Float Plans

Leave your float plan with a responsible friend and establish a reporting schedule. Each boat will be responsible for their own float plans.

If for any reason (i.e. no cell coverage north of Campbell River) you can not report in, the coast guard, on channel 83a (the new Coast Guard working channel), will be happy to relay your message to your base.

Ken will have copies of float plans available for the next meeting (May 20th - 12:30pm)

If you would like to print out your own float plan simply select and copy all the text from the next post and paste it into a word processing document (Word). This can then be saved, edited and printed out.

Do not use 22 as either a Coast Guard channel or chat channel. The Coast Guard does not monitor it any more but still have the rights on it as a backup channel..

Weather Channels:-

1 Comox

21b Chatham Point

3 Port Hardy

21b Holberg, Esperanza, Mt.

1 Eliza Dome, Nootka

2 Port Alberni

3 Estevan Point, Juan DeFuca, Mt.Helmchen

21b Gulf Islands

3 Bowen Island

Rob's Reefing 2

Rob Scott's Reefing Seminar

Find Rob's reefing diagrams below. (He suggests that you should be able to reef in 30 seconds or less) To see a larger view simply click on the diagram.

I thing that now may be an appropriate time to extend a big THANK YOU to Rob for his great effort in extending his enthusiasm, leadership, experience and guidance to all of those participating in this great adventure.

For a larger view of any diagram / picture simply click on it.
To print just click once on the diagram to select it and click the print icon at the top of your browser.

West Coast Odyssey of Cyndyn (8 Weeks)

Lyle and Judie Roberts were kind enough to attend our last meeting and share their experiences circumnavigating the Island on board their M/V Cyndyn. They have also provided a copy of their log which I have included below.

WEST COAST ODYSSEY OF CYNDYN

June 1, 2004: Left Nanaimo at 0800, arrived at Comox at 1530 53 miles

Margaret and Bruce, our friends on our companion boat, hit a submerged deadhead in Baynes Sound and required divers to check it out.

June 3: Left Comox at 0750, arrived Discovery Harbour Marina at 1225 33 miles

June 4: Left Campbell River at 0545 to catch the ebb tide at Seymour Narrows. Very fast ride to Port Neville at 1115. Note in log: “always go on an ebbing tide” 49 miles

June 5: Left Port Neville at 0745, arrived Port McNeill at 1230 40 miles

June 6: Left Port McNeill at 0855, arrived Bull Harbour at 1415 39 miles

June 7: Stayed in Bull Harbour because of weather. Margaret fell down forward passageway at 2130 and broke her arm. Had to take her back to Port Hardy following day.

June 8: Left Bull Harbour at 0755, arrived Port Hardy at 1130 24 miles

June 9: Remained at Port Hardy to help Margaret and Bruce return home.

June 10: Left Port Hardy at 1000, arrived Bull Harbour at 1345

All boats were still waiting for weather to clear. 24 miles

June 11: Off to the Cape: Left Bull Harbour at 0530, around Cape Scott at 0900, stopped at Sea Otter Cove at 1030, because of rising winds 35 miles

June 12: Remained at Sea Otter Cove, tied to mooring buoy. Winds gusting to 48 at Sartine Island

June 13: remained at Sea Otter Cove. More of the same – but saw huge orca. Other boats left, but sea state was 2-3 meters, so we stayed put

June 14: Left Sea Otter Cove at 0625, arrived Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound around noon (time not recorded). Boil water advisory, limited groceries. Large protected anchorage for many boats just inside mouth of Quatsino Sound at Browning Inlet 27 miles

June 16: Left Winter Harbour 0900, fished for a while, arrived Coal Harbour at 1430. No facilities available at all; dock space limited 27 miles

June 17: Left Coal Harbour at 0755, motored to Holberg and back, anchored for night in Varney Bay at 1540. Great crabbing 36 miles

June 18: Left Varney Bay at 0830, motored to Port Alice, arrived at 1045. Stocked up on groceries and fresh water. Left at 1330 for Julian Cove, anchored at 1430. One of two prettiest places on trip. 1 9 miles

June 19: Left Julian Cove at 0900, “outside” to Klashkish Basin in the crook of the elbow of Brooks Peninsula. Tied to mooring buoy at 1415 37 miles

June 20: Brooks Peninsula Day/Fathers’ Day. Left Klashkish Inlet at 0740, in full sun, reached Solander Island at 0910, fished until 10:30. Crept in fog to Columbia Cove at 1230, tied to mooring buoy 25 miles

June 21: Left Columbia Cove at 1300 hours, after fog lifted, arrived at Scow Bay, Bunsby Islands, at 1420. 10 miles

June 22: Left Scow Bay, Bunsby Islands at 1240, arrived Walters Cove at 1410. Interesting slalom course into village docks (very roomy). No restaurant, laundry, or showers, and store open only a few days a week. Could be more facilities in Kyoquot, across the harbour. 10 miles

June 23: Left Walters Cove at 0900, sneaked through a short-cut rocky entrance into Kyoquot

Inlet to Fair Harbour for diesel and water at 1115. Nice people, help with docking, small store. Anchored in Inner Dixie Cove at 1340 18 miles

June 24: Stayed at Inner Dixie Cove for a spa day for first mate. Captain caught a nice ling cod and a prawn trap full of hag fish. Ugh. No radio reception.

June 25: Left Inner Dixie Cove, Kyoquot Sound at 0900, explored Nuchalitz, home of the Nootka tribe, anchored in Queen Cove, Esperanza Inlet at 1345 29 miles

June 26: Remained in Queen Cove as crabbing was promising.

June 27: Left Queen Cove at 0900, arrived Zeballos at 1120.

Not much room at dock 15 miles

June 28: Layover day in Zeballos

June 29: Left Zeballos at 0920, arrived Tahsis at 1145. Westview Marina is good place to stay 15 miles

June 30: Left Tahsis late after morning winds abated at 1310. Passed Critter Cove at 1600 and anchored in Hisnit Inlet at 1620 1620. 21 miles

July 1: Left Hisnit Bay at 1130 after walk on shore and explored upper Nootka Sound, anchored in charming Galiano Bay. 16 miles

Reached 600 nautical miles

July 2: Left Galiano Bay at 0920, explored Spanish Pilots Group to Bligh Island Marine Park near entrance to Nootka Sound. Great anchorage. anchorage 10 miles

July 3: Left Bligh Cove at 0845. Fished, with no luck for two hours, then anchored in Friendly Cove to explore site. No dock, lots of anchorage . Went to Santa Gertrudis(or Dawley’s) Cove to anchor at 1330 6 miles

July 4: Left Santa Gertrudis at 0640 for trip around Estevan Point. Tough sledding for an hour or so. Arrived Hot Springs Cove at 1100. Good mooring or anchoring. Save walk to hot springs until after 5:00 p.m. when tourists leave. 30 miles

July 5: Left Hot Springs Cove at 0830 to fish off Barney Islands, then motored up Sydney Inlet to Coyote (Bottleneck) Cove at 1125 8 miles

Good “back door” to Ahousat, Tofino, et al. Watch for crab traps all over the place.

July 6: Left Coyote Cove at 0820, added water and provisions at Ahousat, a good spot with a nice little restaurant. Lots of dock. Anchored at Friendly Dolphin Cove, near head of Clayoquot Sound, but on the quiet side of Flores Island. Great way to avoid surf on outside. 25 miles

July 7: Left Friendly Dolphin at 0845, investigated Bacchante Bay, anchored in West Whitepine Cove at 1550. Good large anchorage anchorage 19 miles

Depending on sea conditions and weather reports, this might be one of many small anchorages to choose, rather than going into Tofino. That city’s marina is crammed full of derelict boats, with very little moorage for visitors, other than rafting to fish boats. They charge for water, too. Better to fill up at Ahousat, and again at Ucluelet. In an emergency, there is sometimes dock space at Weigh West, but they charge more than the city docks and are further away from town (although we walked it just fine).

July 8: Left West Whitepine Cove at 0855, arrived at Tofino at 1055. Tied up at Weigh West docks at 12:30 16 miles

July 9: Stayed in Tofino, for chores.

July 10: Left Weigh West dock at 0835. Motored out to fishing grounds (8 miles) and caught some lovely wild coho. Returned to Clayoquot and up to Quait Bay in Cypress Bay, just north of Meares Island. 26 miles

July 11: Left Quait Bay, explored Bedwell Channel, traversed Matlset Narrows and Fortune Channel to Mosquito Harbour at 1350. Nice harbour 17 miles

July 12: Left Mosquito Harbour at 0925 and ran down 14 miles

July 13: So nice at Tranquilito Cove we stayed another day. Lyle swam.

July 14: Left Tranquilito Cove at 0845, made the run to Ucluelet and arrived at 1515. Nice peaceful passage, great harbourmaster. 38 miles

July 15/16: Stayed at Ucluelet

July 17: Left Ucluelet at 0800, but got held up at gas dock until 1030. Spent the night at Entrance Harbour. Not recommended – too busy, too crowded. 14 miles

July 18-22: Exploration of Barkley Sound. Did not travel more than 10 miles per day, found exceptional anchorages. Did not like Effingham Bay – too crowded, with swell. Loved Joe’s Bay, Pinkerton Islands (a must see), Port Alberni Yacht Club (great docks, showers, nice people and a place to walk). Eagles Nook, near Effingham Inlet, is a wonderful place for a decadent dinner (moorage included if you eat there). $55.00 each for dinner, without wine, but totally memorable. Fishing good at Swale Rock. Total miles in five days: 40 miles

July 23: Departed Eagles Nook at 0805, arrived at Bamfield at 1030. Got water, tied to Government dock on east side of bay (no water there). Fellow boaters convinced us to try Dodger Channel, right at the entrance to Barclay Sound (south west corner) just across from the entrance to Bamfield. If weather is calm, this is a beautiful way to say goodbye to the west coast. Sunset like a Vickers painting. 15 miles

July 24/25: Left Dodger Channel and returned to Bamfield, for protection against predicted NW gales. Tied to Government dock on west side of harbour. Stayed one extra day to let NW gales settle, walked to Brady’s Beach. Nice place.

July 26: Left Bamfield at 0610 to make passage to Port San Juan. Seas were high for the first hour, but subsided, giving us a nice ride. Sighted Cape Flattery at 0930. Found a spot behind the Port Renfrew public dock at 1230. No room at docks, anchorage open, but calmed at night. 43 miles

July 27: Left Port San Juan Harbour at 0730, arrived at Sooke at 1225. Calm seas in Juan de Fuca Strait. Big public dock, good walk to good stores in town 37 miles

July 28: Moved around to Victoria Harbour to visit with family. 20 miles

Total mileage for trip from Nanaimo to Victoria: 983 nautical miles

(Add mileage for trip from Victoria to Deep Bay)

We left Victoria for Friday Harbour and Anacortes to visit with the friends who had given up the trip due to Margaret’s broken arm, and returned to Nanaimo via the Southern Gulf Islands.

Although we traveled inland on many occasions, we did not go more than a day’s easy voyage off our track at any given time. We found places that we never would have discovered by car, and pretty much had them all to ourselves. So many boats rush down the west coast in order to complete the circumnavigation in a set number of days. Our voyage would have been shorter if we had passed up the side-trips, but except for the five days spent checking for hull damage and visiting medical help, we took seven weeks. We did not go to Gold River (due to Luna) or Port Alberni (due to heat).

The only two rough spots we had to be brave about were rounding Estevan Point and leaving Barclay Sound around Cape Beale. In our boat, we found taking a tip from the sailors and tacking into the waves was the best policy. Although it was bumpy, we didn’t roll too much, and when we got out far enough to clear the point, we turned our backs to the waves and enjoyed the sleigh ride. Our policy was not to travel if winds were more than 15 knots, and seas more than 1 meter. They always seem bigger when you’re out there on them.

Water and fresh groceries will be your biggest challenges after leaving Port McNeill or Port Hardy. Best place, if you don’t go inland to Port Alice, Zeballos or Tahsis, is Ucluelet. At Tofino, as mentioned, it is difficult to find moorage. There is limited provisioning at Winter Harbour, Fair Harbour, Ahousat, and Bamfield. The store might be open at Walters Cove when you arrive. Lunch out for the cooks? Ahousat, Tofino, Ucluelet, Port Alberni yacht club outstation area, and Bamfield!

Enjoy every minute of your trip!

Lyle and Judie Roberts

cyndyn@shaw.ca