Kyuquot Sound

Tara & Tim Coulter have thoroughly researched the area and present the following information:-

Kyuquot Sound

From Checleset Bay to Walter’s Cove we are usually traveling in either ecological reserves, Provincial Parks or First Nation lands. Parks restrict where people can camp and visitors are not allowed to remove anything from the park whether it be rock or stone. First Nations territories require permission and sometimes a fee to go ashore.

Kyuquot Sound is one of the five main sounds on the western coast of Vancouver Island. The many reefs and underlying rocks deterred early explorers and the Sound was one of the last areas to be charted in the province. The area is now a mecca for kayakers and wilderness travelers.

Solander Island Ecological Reserve at the northern tip of Brooks Peninsula cannot be visited except with a permit. It provides refuge for many different species of birds including the Tufted puffin and of course, sea lions. Ecological reserves in BC were created to protect unique ecosystems with rare and endangered plant and animal species. In storm conditions, “winds off Solander Island can be 15 knots higher than further offshore or away from the point.” (Marine Weather Hazards Manual, p. 97)

Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park offers a wilderness experience for hardy adventurers who want to go ashore. Brooks Peninsula and Rugged Point are the only parts of Vancouver Island that escaped glaciation during the last ice age. Therefore, Brooks Peninsula is home to some unique plant species. The park is also home to the Marbled Murrelet which nests in the thick moss of old-growth trees. Although, we are unlikely to explore the park, some may choose to return in the future.

Boaters and kayakers are more familiar with Brooks Peninsula’s notorious intense weather. “The passage around Brooks Peninsula under storm conditions is one of the most hazardous on the West coast” (Marine Weather Hazards Manual, p. 97). However, calm waters do prevail; it’s just a matter of listening to the weather reports and choosing your day.

Columbia Cove at the entrance to Nasparti Inlet offers protected anchorage. There is a park trail that crosses the peninsula that gives you access to an exposed beach, perfect for beachcombing.

The Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve is home to sea otters. The indigenous sea otter population was hunted for pelts and was nearly wiped out in the early 1900s. In an effort to save the population from extinction, sea otters from Alaska were introduced between 1969-1972. The efforts were successful and it is estimated that there are now 2000 otters in the area. However, not everyone is happy with the return of the sea otter.

When the otters were in decline, crabs, sea urchins and abalone were plentiful as the main predator was missing from the food chain. The increase in the otter population has put pressure on shellfish in the area and some experts fear that some illegal culling is happening in the area in order to increase shellfish returns.

The Bunsby Islands are most commonly accessed from Brooks Peninsula enroute to Kyuquot by rock-strewn, Gay Passage. Don Watmough indicates that this is a safer route to follow than attempting the even more, rock-strewn outer passage.

The Bunsbys were named by Captain Richards in 1863 after a Charles Dickens novel, “Dombey & Son”. Watmough says that “inside Gay Passage are some of the area’s best all-weather anchorages.” (Cruising Guide to the West Coast of Vancouver Island, p.63)

1. Eastern side of Bunsby Island tucked inside a cove is the best and most popular even though you can feel some ocean swells here. Anchor in mud, 36’ deep.
2. West side of Gay Passage is secure but more open to SE winds.
3. Between the southern most Bunsby Island and reef-ridden, Checkaklis Island.

Big Bunsby Provincial Marine Park encompasses the easternmost island in the group between Quoukinish Inlet and Malksope Inlet. This park was created to take pressure off Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve, a popular destination for ocean kayakers and other wilderness travelers hoping to catch a glimpse of a sea otter.

Elder, Lucy Paivio lives on Checkaklis Island and is the sister of the chief of the Checleset Kyuquot Territory. She welcomes visitors and should be asked permission to go ashore at Acous, the historical winter village of the Checleset people on Battle Bay where remnants of two old totem poles lay buried in the salal. An offering of fresh food is often appreciated in return for her hospitality (Sea Kayak Nootka & Kyuquot Sounds, p. 151).

Elsie Hulsizer’s beautiful book, “Voyages to Windward – Sailing Adventures on Vancouver Island’s West Coast” provides directions to help you locate the totems, now covered in moss and salal.

Names such as, Battle Bay, Skirmish Islets and Burial Island all point o the violent history of this area.

Carrying on from the Bunsbys to Walter’s Cove (and the First Nations community of Houpsitas) you will pass the now notorious poster child of clearcut logging, Mount Paxton which was featured on the 1992 cover of National Geographic. The devastating erosion of the steep slope was caused by a combination of poor logging practices and a fire that cleared what the loggers left behind.

Kayakers are warned of strong winds which can develop quickly during the passage from the Bunsbys to Walter’s Cove. Morning inflow winds and afternoon outflow winds are common in all the major inlets along the coast and should be taken into consideration especially if they are flowing in opposition to ingoing or outgoing tide.

Sea otters raft together in social displays of grooming their dense fur and can often be found near Chief Rock, just north of Walter’s Cove.

Both the Douglass and Don Watmough cruising guides highly recommend using large scale Chart #3651 to navigate the challenging entrance to Walter’s Cove (note this chart was missed on the initial chart recommendations).

Walter’s Cove is home to approximately 300 residents plus a resident seal, name ‘Miss Charlie”. Miss Charlie was rescued from her dying mother by c-section and raised in a bathtub by the Kayra family of Walter’s Cove. “…She celebrated her 34^th birthday in 1998” (Douglass, p.108).

Half of the residents live in the First Nations community of Houpsitas while the remaining residents live across the bay in Walter’s Cove. Although there are two docks at Houpsitas, they are reserved for the First Nations community.

Walter’s Cove is the first community where provisioning is possible, but remember that this community is only reached by boat, so supplies may be limited depending on when the supply boat last restocked the general store (Thursdays).

Water is available (by donation) just south of the public wharf (340’) and a barge is also located in the Cove offering accommodations and showers (During a call in May/2007 to the General Store, I was told that no one was currently operating the showers and sometimes they are open and sometimes not.)

There is a garbage dumpster available, but be considerate as the garbage is removed weekly by boat. A small hospital, marine hardware store, pay phone, B & B, 6-unit motel and restaurant are also located in the friendly community of Walter’s Cove. Just remember to respect that this is a dry community – so no alcohol consumption please unless you are discreet and below decks.

Fuel is available a further 12 miles up the Sound at Fair Harbour. For those picking up additional crew or in need of emergency parts, Kyuquot can be accessed from Fair Harbour (by land - an exhilarating drive from Zeballos) and then by either water taxi or float plane to Kyuquot. Some boaters may choose to make the journey themselves to Fair Harbour where there are limited amenities.

Weekly service on the MV Uchuck III, a former World War II minesweeper is also available from Gold River. “Uchuck: means “healing waters” although many of its passengers will have another translation for the 136 foot, determined freighter which departs for Nootka and Kyuquot Sounds all year-long.

Note: No anchoring is allowed in Walter’s Cove due to the presence of marine cable and water lines (Douglass, p. 109).

Rugged Point Provincial Park is a remote park south of Kyuquot offering some challenging hiking and a beautiful beach. In Elsie Hulsizer’s book there is a photo with the following caption, “a hiking trail leads across the peninsula to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the coast.”

Rugged Point is located on the eastern shore of Kyuquot Channel. During a nor’wester one evening the Hulsizers took refuge in a small, nameless cove in nearby Amai Inlet that the Douglass refer to as ‘Petroglyph Cove’. The locals call it ‘Blue Lips Cove’ because it was so cold there, that their lips turned blue!

Dixie Cove Marine Park offers good all weather anchorage in Kyuquot Sound for a limited number of boats.

Cachalot is home to a unique Ferro cement sculpture of a sperm whale in honour of the some 4700 whales that were killed and processed by the Pacific Whaling Company at this location. A trip ashore will reveal a few bits and pieces of rusted machinery, but otherwise there is little trace of this once vibrant whaling station that employed 200 people at its peak of operations.

For those who like to explore, the coast between Kyuquot and Esperanza Inlet is abundant with marine fossils. Hulsizer explains that the fossils of Vancouver Island’s west coast tell a fascinating story of geological forces shaping the location of the earth’s continents. Vancouver Island was once part of a cluster of islands called Wrangellia located near the equator. On a conveyor belt of molten lava and oceanic currents, the islands began moving north at a rate of 7 cm/year. Fossil hounds will discover fossils of tropical and subtropical creatures by cracking open beach rocks.

Contacts:

Kyuquot Band office

(Tel) 250-332-5259

Walter’s Cove General Store/Government Dock

250-332-5211

Voyageur Water Taxi

250-332-5301

www.voyageurtaxi.com

Walter’s Cove Lodge

1-800-810-8933

www.walterscove.com

(fly-in resort; no facilities for non-guests)

Resources:

Environment Canada. Marine Weather Hazards Manual. Frazen Print Communications Ltd.: 1999

Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Sailing Directions Ottawa.: 1999, (with 2001 supplement)

Harbord, Heather. Sea Kayak Nootka & Kyuquot Sounds.Rocky, Mountain Books: Surrey, BC. 2004.

Hulsizer, Elsie. Voyages to Windward – Sailing Adventures on Vancouver Island’s West Coast. Harbour Publishing Co. Ltd.: Madeira Park, 2005.

Watmough, Don. Cruising Guide to the West Coast of Vancouver Island. Evergreen Pacific Publishing Ltd.: Washington, 1998.

Good article on sea otters in Bunsby Islands:

www.canadiangeographic.ca/travel/adventure/guides/summer_2006/feature_otter.asp

Information on BC marine parks and safety tips:

www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks

www.britishcolumbia.com/parks

www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/towns/?townID=3977

www.britishcolumbia.com/parks/?id=331